It may occur to you, as you circulate among the pasta snobs, wine geeks, and amateur cheese sniffers who move, like agitated schools of fish, through the new mega-Italian-food destination Eataly, that you’ve entered some strange, previously uncharted dimension of the food universe. It certainly occurred to my daughter Jane as we waited for our lunch to arrive at the vegetable restaurant Le Verdure, one of the many dining venues in the sprawling food-hall complex. During...
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